How to Do Your Eyebrows - The Best Shape and Styling Techniques
Posted on June 27 2016
They say that your eyes are the windows to your soul. Nowadays your eyebrows and eyelashes are an intricate part in how others interpret your facial beauty - so it is essential to get your eyebrows just right.
In this article we touch on popular eyebrow shapes and styling techniques recommended by leading cosmetologist and makeup artists. For insights and techniques for your eyelashes we covered those in our post, A Comprehensive Guide to Sultry Eyelashes.
Full, defined, and perfectly arched eyebrows transform your look in no time at all and can make or break a fashionable statement in something sassy like a pencil dress. While you pay special attention to your eye shadow, liner, and lipstick it is a common fashion faux pa to forget about shaping and styling your eyebrows.
Eyebrows vary from woman to woman. Some women have brows that are not exactly symmetrical, others too thin or unruly brows. With a little bit of direction, expertise, and care, your eyebrows are easily shaped and styled.
This quick reference guide covers the various shapes and recommendations for your eyebrows according to your face shape as well as styles and shaping techniques.
How to Shape Your Eyebrows
The shape of your eyebrows should be dictated by your facial bone structure. If you are at a loss as to which eyebrow shape is the perfect shape for you, here are a few insights into the best eyebrow shapes recommended per your face.
If your face is widest around your cheek area, with the length and width of your face being almost equal, you have a round-shaped face. Miranda Kerr has a round face shape.
Your focus is to give your face the illusion of being longer and more lean. Steer clear of rounded brows as they only serve to make your face look more round. Instead create an eyebrow shape with a higher arch.
By creating a vertical lift, people’s eyes are going to be drawn up and down, thereby giving the illusion of a longer and more lean face.
If you have an an oval face you have defined cheekbones, a wider forehead, and a face silhouette that narrows gracefully at the chin. Oprah has an oval shaped face.
Your eyebrow goals for your oval face is to simply maintain it. Softly arched brows are the perfect way to achieve this goal. Avoid too thinly shaped eyebrows and simply maintain your natural shape for the most complimenting look.
If you have a long face you may need to make your face appear a little shorter to restore balance. The best eyebrow shape for this type is a flat eyebrow that works as a horizontal border to divide the face visually and make it appear more proportional.
Often long face shapes face the battle of a face that appears flat. By reducing the arch in your eyebrows you provide depth to your face and more definition.
Perhaps the most prominent feature of a square-shaped face is a strong, bony, and square jawline. Angelina Jolie has a square face.
If you have a square face shape the width of your forehead, jawline, and cheekbones are practically even. Your face may appear too strong without a counterbalance so your eyebrows are very important. Your focus is to soften your jawline and restore balance to your face.
Let your face dictate the ideal eyebrow shape for you. Start off with curved brows and gradually fashion a little more angle into the brow until it compliments your jawline. In general, the stronger the jawline, the more angular you need to go.
A defined and clear sharp arch at the top of your eyebrows offsets the square-ness of your face and softens your appearance.
This type of face shape is not very common. It is characterized by highly angular curves in a face that is widest at the forehead. The focus with a diamond-shaped face is to make your temple area appear a little less wide to soften your whole face. This is usually done with a curved eyebrow shape.
If your face tapers towards a pointed chin, you have a heart-shaped one similar to Lisa Kudrow, Julia Roberts, and Madonna.
Heart shaped faces also tend to have prominent foreheads. Again, the goal is to balance your pointed chin and draw attention away from your forehead. The best way to achieve this goal is to create a rounded and curved brow with a soft feminine low arch. Keep adding more volume to the brow till you feel like you have balanced your pointed chin and forehead adequately.
Your face shape and bone structure play key roles in finding eyebrows that compliment your style and look. When working to achieve or find the perfect arch and eyebrow shape for your face start with very minimal shaping at a time.
Avoid shaping in large portions and rather shape in very small sections to avoid over styled eyebrows. Remove one or two hairs rather than an entire line.
Once you have found your perfect shape you need to style your eyebrows. Here are the most recommended ways to style your eyebrows.
How to Style Your Eyebrows
Brush your brows
Many of us do not really bother with brushing our brows and yet we should. The truth is that this is one of the most important steps if you want absolutely stunning brows that lay the way you want them too.
Whether you like a precise look or lean towards wild and unkempt, start with brushing your brows. Some brow combs tend to irritate the skin with their harshness. Reach for the Tarte Shape Shifter Double Ended Bamboo Brow Brush ($22) or try the e.l.f. Studio Lash and Brow Comb ($3).
A good eyebrow brush helps you separate and soften your brows without removing any of the makeup you may have on. The rule of thumb while brushing is to start at the roots and brush in the direction of the growth of hair.
As compared to waxing or spot shaving, tweezing is a sensible way to maintain your eyebrows. Though tweezing is a bit uncomfortable initially as you continue to tweeze overtime you’ll hardly feel the pain. Tweezing is recommended for eyebrow maintenance because it gives you a lot more control so you do not end up removing too many hairs at one go.
For healthy skin and to prevent infection be sure to keep your tweezers squeaky clean as to avoid any breakouts due to bacteria. Prior to tweezing relax the follicles on the brows by lightly pressing a warm cloth to the area. Hold each hair as close to the root as possible, and pull out one at a time.
If you have a proclivity of going tweezer-happy, steer clear of the slanted tips because they allow you to tweeze lots of hair at one time and may lead to over-plucking. Pointed tweezers like the Tweezerman Stainless Steel Point Tweezer ($22) lend themselves to a precise and conscious use.
Fill Them In
For women with thin or patchy eyebrows, adding depth and color opacity to the brows is of prime importance. There are a number of different tools and techniques that you may use to achieve this goal.
Perhaps, the most common way is by using an eyebrow pencil. Find one that offers a very fine tip to ensure you are able to create precise strokes that look like actual brow hair. Some recommended eyebrow pencils include Joey Healy’s Brow Architect Stylo, Anastasia Brow Wiz ($21), and Brow Power Super Skinny ($24) which receives an extra thumbs-up for being available in so many different shades—if matching your brow color is important to you, reach for one of these.
Other than eyebrow pencils you can also use an angled brush and powder or brow pomades and markers when you want to actually reconstruct the shape of your brow dramatically. Some good options include the Eyeko Brow Liner ($20), Kat Von D Tattoo Brow ($19) for really sparse hair, and Anastasia Beverly Hill Brow Powder Duo ($23).
Irrespective of which brow filler you settle on, the trick is to choose a color that is a little more muted than your actual brow color. This helps you achieve a natural look. In case you find that you’ve put on too much, just dab the brow with your fingertip to soften the shade.
Time to Finish
To achieve fabulous eyebrows - reach for a good brow gel. Available in tinted as well as clear gel options, these are a must-have in your makeup box. Good tinted gels are perfect for hiding those pesky grey hairs, while clear gels are a boon to those who want to keep their eyebrows tidy and precise through the day. A brow gel allows thinner eyebrows to gain volume so they appear thicker.
Your eyebrows are an intricate part of your style and look. Overzealous plucking, tweezing, or waxing is a no-no. Be nice to your brows, and encourage them to grow by treating them right.
Instead of tweezing at any random time of the day, pluck immediately after you get out of the shower. Your skin will be softer and more pliant at this time, allowing you to pluck with ease. If any redness appears, try a salve like the Milk Makeup Cooling Water ($24) for instant relief.
When it comes to creating fabulous eyebrows, your point of view matters the most. The best way to get the right perspective is to stand at least a foot away from the mirror and access your look. Take into account your face shape and style goals to get the facial style and look you desire.
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